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Leaves may have become wet from condensation dripping from the tunnel roof, leaks in top of irrigation tubing or water depositing on leaves under high humidity.There are three different types of blight that may infect your tomatoes. Early blight won’t necessarily ruin your vegetables, but it will significantly limit production. Early blight starts as small brown or black lesions, often developing the appearance of a target or bull’s eye. The most frequent result of early blight is the loss of foliage.Īnother common problem is septoria leaf spot. This vegetable blight primarily infects foliage, starting with circular lesions on the lower leaves. Leaf spot can spread rapidly and destroy foliage, but does not usually affect the fruit. The most severe type of vegetable blight is late blight.

Late blight ( Phytophthora infestans ) can spread rapidly and obliterate tomatoes and potatoes in a matter of days. Late blight was the pathogen responsible for the Irish potato famine in the 1840s. The University of Massachusetts Extension Vegetable Program describes the tell-tale symptoms as “large (at least nickel-sized) olive-green to brown spots on leaves with slightly fuzzy white fungal growth on the underside when conditions have been humid (early morning or after rain). Sometimes the lesion border is yellow or has a water-soaked appearance. Firm, brown spots develop on tomato fruit.” Brown to blackish lesions also develop on upper stems. If your tomatoes (or potatoes) are carrying late blight, the only thing you can do is destroy them, as well as a perimeter of healthy plants around them.

The best way to stop vegetable blight from ruining your tomatoes is to prevent it. Here are five things you can do to help stop blight before it starts. Dry leaves are not great environments for fungal spores. Additionally, any spores in the soil can splash up onto plant leaves when you water from above. Again, affected soil can splash onto plant leaves or get carried by birds or other critters.